Opportunity in East Africa

new opportunities - Mozambique, Zambia, Zanzibar and South Africa!

2011-08-11T14:43:00.000-05:00

Goodbye, for now

2011-01-02T05:49:00.004-06:00

The Fischmans, Donatus and Lulu our pilot, in front of the puddle jumper plane from Serengeti back to Arusha. Benji was co-pilot. okay so maybe that's not 100% accurate but he definitely sat in the co-pilot's seat.

Woke up this morning with monkeys in the trees outside my hotel window and oh, monkeys outside my door in the outdoor corridor. They are so intriguing, especially after having been to the
Oldvai Gorge yesterday. It is known for the oldest human remains found and is part of the rift Valley. There is a museum there that goes through evolution and the movement of man. It’s fascinating how man adapted. Just a minute, a monkey has just come to visit in the lobby 2 feet from me. They look like you could go and hug it but definitely not a good idea.

Baby baboons about 2 weeks old

Shoshi looking for the Velvet monkeys at the lodge

Mama and baby baboon

Stance that a giraffe must take in order to drink water

Donatus, Benji, Shoshi and Sharon and the river watching the hippos and the croc.

It’s always so sad to leave! There is something so powerful and compelling about being in Africa. It always seems to put perspective one's own life in America. Already looking forward to going back.

More things to come but it has been a long. long time since I had some good sleep. Goodnight!

Bows and Arrows, Spears and Cow Dung

2011-01-02T05:32:00.002-06:00

He is the best hunter boy with definitely the best outfit. A matching baboon top and shirt and yes, they do eat these animals for their survival. He always seemed to be smiling.

Another great day in Tanzania. Hunted with the Hadzabe –a teenage boy’s heaven, probably true for boys of most ages. It’s amazing watching the Hadzabe boys/men hunt with bow and arrow. After the kill, they immediately make a fire with two pieces of wood and some dung (no matches), cook their catch and eat it on the spot. We tasted some dove and dikdik liver. The dove wasn’t bad but the dikdik liver is liver. All livers seem to have that same taste no matter what species of animal. It was great to see Benji’s enthusiasm while hunting and later learning to throw a spear, Iraqw style. Maasai throw them differently and there are shorter but that is tomorrow’s visit. Met with a clan of Datoga that are
blacksmiths. Different clans do different trades. They used all recycle metals. Then learned all about the Iraqw history, culture and customs and saw a process in which the cow dung and urine are used to light the home and the stove by way of methane. Sharon had the same question I had last time – why doesn’t everyone do this? Three cows would do it for one home. Perhaps space to keep them is a problem in the suburbs but if everyone had a cow or 2 or 3, it would also eliminate mowing the lawn. Milked my first cow today. We’re at this lovely lodge and I’m hoping for internet connection tonight. We have hot water and that’s all that matters really after coming back from the bush.


Benji got to carry our breakfast snack home. We tried a bit of dove and I had a dik dik liver. That may have been mistake because the following day was a bit rough on my digestive system.

The elder or boss of this particular family unit of Hadzabe

A lesson for all in fire making. Needed: Two sticks, one round and hard and the other flat and soft. Some cow ding and a few sticks and voila... Okay, so maybe it takes nore than a day's practice. I will once again be working on this for the next time I come back. There must be some sort of substitution for cow dung in the suburbs.?

Benji at Target practice

Benji at spear throwing practice. Iraqw style.

Close call but we’re in Tanzania.

2011-01-02T05:11:00.001-06:00

The migration is coming together but not yet there. A long line of wildebeest crossing the river. We could not see the end.

Surprise today - we arrived at the Entebbe airport for our fight to Kilimanjaro. It is tiny. Our flight left at 1:15 and we arrived at 12:30, boarding at 12:45. The airline attendant told us to hurry because we were late - not very African. I don’t recall ever hearing the words “hurry up” or “ late” while anywhere in Africa. This is a first.
It was a great afternoon, arriving in Tanzania just felt great! It’s beautiful, warm and Donatus was there to greet us with his big warm self and his soft spoken voice. He imparted lots of knowledge along our route.
For example, wildebeest typically gestate for 9 months but if the rains are late they can wait up to 11 months. As soon as the calves are born
they begin their migration. One and something million migrate every year. The newborns can stand immediately and run as fast as their mothers just 6 minutes after being born. Zebras are incredibly smart and run with the wildebeest for a couple of reasons. First, they eat the tall grasses and the wildebeest eat the short grasses so the zebras graze first on order to mow the grass for the wildebeest to eat their share. Zebras are keen at sensing danger and they can run faster than the wildebeest so when there is a predator the hunter will go after the wildebeest first because they are easier to catch. That goes for crossing the rivers as well. The zebras wait for the wildebeests to go first so the crocodiles will catch them and then it is safe for the zebras to cross. Because there are so many more wildebeest it is the balance of nature that they are easy prey or they would take over the grasslands and there would not be food for the rest of the animals.
We are staying just outside of Karatu in a beautiful hotel and it feels very luxurious sitting here alone in a king size bed. Sorry Ev, it can be your turn next time. I know you are in the bed with all our beautiful boys and no doubt, Shlomo. OK maybe not Dante but none the less, I’m thinking about you all while sleeping like a starfish.
I really enjoy the Fischman’s company, all of them! I do believe they are enjoying Africa so far. Check out their blog for a second perspective on travel in Africa.

http://fischmansinafrica.blogspot.com/

Donatus, our fearless guide and friend, searching for the migration of the wildebeest.

Vultures feasting on a dead wildebeest. He most likely died of sickness or old age because there is no torn flesh seen. They are eating the insides out fro his anus because it is easier than pecking the flesh open. they have certain anti-bodies that prevent them from contracting most diseases that their prey may have.

Goat stew, Matoke and Wedding Preperations

2011-01-02T04:50:00.000-06:00

We came to help the women from the village prepare for today's wedding which we had hoped to attend. It was supposed to start at 10am but here you can see the video of food preperation starting at noon and by 2:00 pm, the bride and groom were still not present but things were looking beautiful. This is African time but because it had taken us 12 hours from Kampala to the village on our way in, we thought we'd leave soon because we had a plane to catch to Tanzania for safari the next morning. We also were hoping to see the Ndere National Dance Troup. We did make it in time and it was well worth it. Perhaps next time we can go to a wedding.
Check out this video for a partial cooking lesson. Pics coming soon.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=yirgalemahu#p/a/u/0/cI84qqCWRUU

Political Rallies, Tobin Health Center and the boda bodas

2010-12-24T13:12:00.000-06:00

Yesterday we went to Rabbi Gershom's political rally. Those intimately involved in the campaign ride around in an open air truck complete with megaphone, sound system, music, whistles and a coup[le of vuvuzulas. Many supporters, staff campaigners, religious leaders (and myself) stood up to give their endorsements and state why one should vote for Rabbi Gershom. There were a couple of imams who gave their endorsements and another well-known figure in the community who will be switching parties to vote for Gershom. The rabbi is a popular candidate and seems to have quite a bit of name recognition. After the speeches, everyone danced as the music blasted on the sound system. Very fun and festive.

Next day onto visit the Health Center. It's amazing what one can do with very little. Their supplies are extremely limited and we brought what we could.. Much more is needed but they're doing great work.

Most of the patients are babies and young children with malaria. Massa Barnz, the doctor, on the left.

Took the bodas bodas home. They are the motorcycle taxis and there is a dedicated ward in most hospitals just for boda boda accident victims. Only one minor injury in our group and we simply duct taped the wound. All's well so far and Benji is hardcore at a mere 15 yrs old.

We made it!.YES!

2010-12-23T01:45:00.000-06:00

We’re here in Nabagoye.

It was an adventure today. Started out at Owina market. It is the busiest market in Kampala. Great to look at it for those who have never seen a sprawling African open market. Not exactly like the shopping malls in the states. It’s where all your Goodwill donations end up and much, much more - always lots of people and lots of action. It wakes up all your senses. It’s one of those places that reminds you you’re alive.

Survived driving in Kampala. There is always traffic and there are no rules. It’s fun for an hour. Unfortunately it takes an hour to get 6 blocks. That is why there is the boda boda, the moytorcylcle taxi, but getting to where you want to go is a bit risky.

Started out going to Nabagoye, near Mbale. First the car ran out of gas and then we got about halfway and broke down in the middle of nowhere. Luckily, Isaac from the guest house came to rescue us. Poor Samuel stayed with the car and is now trying to get it fixed. Arrived in the village around 1am.

I think we’ll relax this morning, see the village and then go campaign with Rabbi Gershom!

Pictures coming soon!

Morning in Entebbe

2010-12-22T01:59:00.000-06:00

It’s a beautiful day in Entebbe – warm, warm, warm and raining. There is a huge pool with a 12’ foot high dive in our fancy hotel here in Entebbe. I would love to try it in honor of Raph, Dante and Yirga, who would jump at the chance, but it’s raining. Maybe next time.

Stayed up for 34 hours. I think that’s my unintentional record.

Maintaing my reputation as technically challenged, the IT guy here in the hotel saved me. Tried to get my equipment charged and working last night - no luck. I suppose some would say , no skill. All is well now.

Samuel will be picking us up to go to Mbale soon. Can't wait to get on the road and see and smell that familiar red earth!

A bit of eco-tourism and some facts on Uganda

2010-12-19T10:47:00.004-06:00

My friend Samuel and his brother are putting the finishing touches on their eco-village on Lake Victoria in Uganda. A place for tourists and marine biologists. They're growing their own organic food and it sounds like this "village" will be sustainable. Very cool.

Arriving in Entebbe and then onto Nabagoye. Stopping in Jinja for some white water rafting in the White Nile on the way back and then onto Kampala to enjoy a bit of their famous nightlife!

Some Facts about Uganda

Government
The colonial boundaries created by Britain to delimit Uganda grouped together a wide range of ethnic groups with different political systems and cultures. These differences prevented the establishment of a working political community after independence was achieved in 1962. The dictatorial regime of Idi AMIN (1971-79) was responsible for the deaths of some 300,000 opponents; guerrilla war and human rights abuses under Milton OBOTE (1980-85) claimed at least another 100,000 lives. The rule of Yoweri MUSEVENI since 1986 has brought relative stability and economic growth to Uganda. During the 1990s, the government promulgated non-party presidential and legislative elections. In January 2009, Uganda assumed a nonpermanent seat on the UN Security Council for the 2009-10 term.

Flag description
Six equal horizontal bands of black (top), yellow, red, black, yellow, and red; a white disk is superimposed at the center and depicts a red-crested crane (the national symbol) facing the hoist side; black symbolizes the African people, yellow sunshine and vitality, red African brotherhood; the crane was the military badge of Ugandan soldiers under the UK.

Abayudaya Jewish Community of Uganda
The Abayudaya Jewish Community is a growing 100-year old community of over 1,000 Jews living among 10,000 Christians and Muslims. They live in scattered villages in the rolling, green hills of Eastern Uganda. The largest village, Nabagoye, is near Mbale.

The Abayudaya, whose tribal name means "people of Judah," trace their Jewish origins to the turn of the 20th century. According to Rabbi Gershom Sizomu, the Abayudaya began their journey to Judaism under the leadership of Semei Kakungulu, a great warrior was to be a missionary for the British, converting the people of Mbale to Christianity. However, Kakungulu favored the Hebrew Bible. In 1919, the community began practicing the biblical Judaism they maintain to this day.

After Kakungulu’s death in 1928, many members drifted away. In 1971, Idi Amin Dada came to power, banning Jewish practice. Many in the community were forced to convert to other religions. After the fall of Amin in 1979, the remnants of the Abayudaya community gathered to begin rebuild the community.

2 more days.

2010-12-17T14:48:00.001-06:00

Rabbi Gershom Sizomu running for member of parliament

2010-12-14T09:29:00.003-06:00

From Be'chol Lashon press release

Native-born Rabbi Running for National Parliament in Uganda

San Francisco, November 16, 2010 Rabbi Gershom Sizomu is running for National Parliament in Uganda. If elected to parliament Rabbi Sizomu would not only be the first Jew elected to national office in Uganda, but also the first rabbi to be seated in nationally elected government outside of Israel.

Candidate Sizomu sees his political mission as directly connected to his religious vision. As he explains, “It is important that local and national government officials be tolerant and foster a climate of understanding between religious groups.” He is running for office with the endorsements of Christian clergy and prominent Ugandan politicians, including The Honorable Nathan Nandala Mafabi, Member of Parliament. The campaign of this traditional Jew is being managed by a local Muslim leader.

With the help of Be’chol Lashon, an American based NGO committed to strengthening the Jewish people worldwide, Sizomu came to the US to train as a rabbi. In conjunction with Be’chol Lashon he has been working to provide clean water, mosquito nets and provide medical care with the building of a new health center in Mbale. He is improving life for everyone in his region regardless of religious affiliation or economic means.

Candidate Sizomu’s expansive vision of religious tolerance runs counter to the discrimination he experienced growing up during the rule of Idi Amin Dada. Under Amin, Judaism was banned and the native Jewish community, called the Abayudaya, was persecuted.

Having already secured the official endorsement of the Forum for Democratic Change party, Rabbi Sizomu is waiting until November 25th to have his papers officially endorsed by the National Electoral Commission. The election will be held in February 18, 2011.

Follow Gershom Sizomu's Campaign on Facebook

Starting anew.

2010-12-12T21:50:00.003-06:00

Starting anew. Going next week to spend some time in Nabagoye, Uganda with the Abayudaya. Hoping to go on the campaign trail with Rabbi Gershom who's running for parliament. Should he win he will be the first Jew to serve as a member of parliament in Uganda. Bringing much needed supplies. In light of this -17 temperature, can't wait to be in some warm equatorial weather.

2009-12-02T13:42:00.003-06:00

NYT, Kristof: Micro-lending, A powerful truth

2009-08-19T22:21:00.010-05:00

In the New York Times today, Nichola Kristof and Sheryl WuDunn wrote a great article about the power of micro-finance and women.
"There’s a growing recognition among everyone from the World Bank to the U.S. military’s Joint Chiefs of Staff to aid organizations like CARE that focusing on women and girls is the most effective way to fight global poverty and extremism."

Click on this photo for a link to listings of organizations supporting women in developing countries

And there are a few other things to do in Zanzibar

2009-06-27T23:48:00.003-05:00

Micro-lending possibilities with WEDTF, Zanzibar

2009-06-27T22:41:00.006-05:00

This may be the most fun of all the possible micro lending/teaching experiences for myself. I met Mrs Alam and Mr, Ali who run the Women Entrepreneurship Development Trust Fund (wow). They give micro loans, training and mentorship to people looking to become entrepreneurs. It is mostly women. Mrs. Alama has numerous women interested in getting in the wedding decorating business here in Zanzibar. It is good money and at the moment, the people of Zanzibar who can afford wedding decorations are bringing people and materials in from mainland Tanzania and other places. They are looking for people to train others who in turn will train the women. Although this is not considered interior design it is in the same realm. I think this would be a great opportunity for students to teach some basic design 101. Mrs, Alama mentioned that when one person has a successful business, lots of people copy it and then the market is flooded and nobody wins. She suggested teaching the women how to be creative. That would be interesting to try and do in a week, very challenging. I will go back to Zanzibar and do this!

Micro-lending possibilities with The Maasai, Tanzania

2009-06-27T20:51:00.003-05:00

I met Seele today. She is a Maasai woman and works with an organization called CORDS. The fundamental purpose of CORDS is to enhance sustainable pastoral livelihoods.
The overall goal is to integrate women fully into pastoral development processes through initiating projects that reduce women's workloads, improve their working and living conditions and enhance development status of pastoral women from the grassroots.

Seele conducts seminars and trainings in order:
To impact new knowledge and skills to women about running small scale projects
To raise their capacity for income generating activities.
Privation of credit to self-help women's groups.
To prevent FGM (female genital mutilation)

I plan to work with Seele, adding to her micro-lending as well as helping to teach basic business classes. I think it would be interesting for women to spend a day with a Maasai woman, perhaps go to market with her, which is held once a month, and help her sell. I'm not sure yet exactly what they sell but it is the same market where their sons go to sell the cattle.

see this link for more details
http://www.cordstz.org/

Micro-lending possibilities with The Abayudaya (Ugandan Jews)

2009-06-27T13:43:00.006-05:00

I had shabbat with some Jews in Uganda and it was great. The Friday night service was casual, real and basic. The music was similar with a much better beat. The drums were being played. I went to Rabbi Gershon's house for dinner after the service. We had goat, matoke, (because what Ugandan meal would leave out the matoke?) soup (broth) and homemade challah. We sang songs after the meal, a drum was brought out, of course. It was my new found friend Rachel, a rabbinical student from NYC and myself, the rabbi, his wife Siporah, their 3 kids and 20 other kids at dinner. Rabbi Gershon is interesting and funny and I plan to work with him and this community. It is a modest village and people are looking to start businesses. I think bringing Jews here and Jewish youth, in particular, would be beneficial to everyone involved. I look forward to bringing my kids to Nabugoye.

White Water Rafting in the White Nile

2009-06-27T13:03:00.006-05:00

The scenery was beautiful, the water was warm and it was a warm sunny day (surprise, surprise, most days are). Great trip down the river. The rapids really get your heart pounding.

On to Uganda

2009-06-27T11:58:00.004-05:00

Took the bus from Arusha to Kampala, 20 hours. It was lovely, the earth is burnt sienna, the terrain goes from lush tropical green to brown and tan with sparse vegetation. The roads had potholes the size of a VW bug and there is tarmac about half the trip and dirt/rock road the rest. There is constant music with static that plays on the loudspeakers for most of trip. Lots of talk on the bus. It all went smoothly except the one girl who got left behind at the Kenyan border. Everyone started discussing what to do, the priest arguing with the bus driver, the fare taker arguing with some other passenger, etc. etc. Not a bad ride. However, I don't think I'll include this experience in my tours.

Lake Eyasi

2009-06-27T08:53:00.002-05:00

On the way back from the bush.

Hunting with the Hadzabe

2009-06-27T06:16:00.008-05:00

This was one of my favorite days n Mainland Tanzania. I went hunting with the Hadzabe people. They are hunter gatherers and move around to wherever the animals are. They eat any animal, so I was told. They hunt with bow and arrow and insisted I get a lesson. I did much better with the bow and arrow than the spear. We didn't catch anything (I was really happy about this because there was a chance I may have cried which probably would have been impolite). We did eat some roots and some honey, live bees and all in the honey, which was quite tasty. The roots had a lot of moisture in them. The Hadzabe don't drink water, they get their liquids from roots and the blood of the animals they eat, which they eat super rare. I got a lesson in making fire from 2 pieces of wood, not a myth. Their way of life was just amazing to me. They make survival in the bush seem so easy, which I know it is not. One young man was all scarred up from a leopard attack. He shot the leopard but it didn't die. It came back and attacked, He survived, as all the Hadzabe know what to do with the native plants and how to use their medicinal qualities. They also smoke a lot! I refrained from that, as the situation seemed a bit unreal as it was. Lastly, there are very few old people in this tribe which live in small groups or clans. When a person gets old and is no longer useful to the tribe, an animal is hunted and killed. That old person gets a big meal and then is taken out to die. The animal carcass is left next to the person and the hyenas come and eat them both. Typically, hyenas only eat already dead things unless they perceive their meal will be taken from them. So, the person gets eaten alive. I had a hard time believing this, but Donatus did his thesis on the Hadzabe people and spent time living with them so I believe it's true. It may seem cruel to us but it is part of the end of life for them.

Ta Tonga

2009-06-27T06:02:00.013-05:00

Loserian's friend is also a guide and he took us to his uncle's house. The Ta Tonga are herders like the Maasai. I believe they were not always on friendly terms with the each other. Once again, it goes back to the Maasai taking all the cows. It was not considered stealing though, because all the cows in the world belonged to he Maasai, according to their beliefs. A treaty was signed regarding the Maasai and cow stealing. I'm not sure who the other parties were but now all is well and the Maasai are probably one of the most famous and most photographed people in all of Africa. Back to the Ta Tonga. Papa in the picture has 10 wives. Five are here at home with him and the other 5 are out with the cows looking for greener pastures. There was an onion factory and farm built near here, then people came to work and a village grew. However, this resulted in less grazing land so the herders must take their cows wherever there is good grazing. It is their way of life,

Spear Throwing Lesson

2009-06-26T15:48:00.009-05:00

Slept in Karatu last night, had dinner w/Donatus and Loserian. It was nice, they drink Red Bull and gin - I couldn't do it. I went to the the market today with our chef to buy groceries for this evening's dinner at the campsite. Dinner was just like "Out of Africa", the table with the tablecloth, dinner settings, gas lamp and a couple mosquitos. The food was really delicious, some sort of stew. I would give it high marks anywhere I ate it.
After the market, we visited the Irako Cultural Center. It was basically a family's home and the dad made a traditional house like the Irako used to live before the government of Tanzania tore their houses down. It was part of Tanzania's socialist experiment. It was based on the "ugamaa" (familyhood) village, an agricultural collective. That didn't work and next came direct state control. 85% of the rural population was relocated into 7000 planned villages in an effort to modernise agriculture and have better access to social services.
The Iroka built their homes underground so that when the Maasai came to steal their cattle, they would hear them coming and could grab their spears, which they kept overhead near the door, and defend their cows (which they kept in their houses). So I had a spear throwing lesson as well as grinding millet lesson. The coolest part was that this man took his cow's dung and urine and had these vats underground and turned the waste into gas to power his home, lights and stove. It seems like there's a lot of shit in this world, why is their an energy crisis?

Some Fine Camera work at the Ngorongoro Crater

2009-06-25T05:15:00.007-05:00

OK, perhaps my camera skills need some work. I'm sure by the end of this trip, you'll see a marked improvement!? Couldn't be much worse. Spent the day at the crater and saw all the "Big Five" and more. (The big Five are lions, elephants, leopards, rhinos and buffaloes.) Loserian and Donutus, my hosts and guides, are conservationists and work here at the Ngorongoro Crater so I had real experts telling me about the animals and their behaviors, etc. We also took advantage of the various lookouts around the crater who called into Donatus to report a rhino spotting, etc. They are actually there to look for poachers and animals that may be behaving strangely and are sick. It was all good.

African Hospitality - Tanzania

2009-06-25T04:35:00.007-05:00

I arrived at Mount Kilimanjaro airport late in the evening. My airplane mate offered me her passport, being that Americans pay at least twice as much to enter Tanzania, $100 US for Americans, compared with anyone else on the planet. I thought about it but the blond hair and extra 50 lbs might look suspicious. No wonder they like us Americans, not to mention Obama's name and face are everywhere. Don't the Tanzanians know we're having a recession in the US? It hasn't seem to affected Tanzania much (tourism is slightly down) according to my sources.

Loserian, my host, came to pick me up, and in typical African style, took care of my room and everything else. Hospitality is extremely important everywhere in sub-Saharan Africa and if one has a guest from somewhere else, it's typically the host's responsibility to take care of that person until they leave. Stayed in a nice little hotel/motel with a tropical courtyard in the center. Typical African layout and style. I love the tropical foliage, it's a bit like a happy pill for me. Will be starting my safari in the morning.
Habari za joni! goodnight.

So many possibilities

2009-06-24T11:02:00.008-05:00

East Africa
Kilimanjaro airport, Tanzania
Arusha, Ngorongoro Crater, Lake Eyasi
Kampala, Uganda
Nbugoye
Mombasa, Kenya
Zanzibar -Old Stone Town, Nungwi, Kenwda